The view from Hotel Kamal's rooftop restaurant my first evening in Agra
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Sunday, September 27, 2009
"Because Your Face Is Like Japan"
I am in Varanasi,
I am very sleepy,
but I have lllllllots to tell you about, which I shall get to soon.
Theoretically my train back to Jaipur is getting in Tuesday afternoon, but judging from our last train arriving 7 hours late, I am not expecting much. But if I do get in in the afternoon, I plan to write up some things about this and my school trip to Shekhawati, and post them during a chai break at school on Wednesday. So look for that! =)
also I'm sorry about the minimal photos; I also wanted to put one of the Yamuna and the Taj Mahal up, but the wireless signal we pick up in our host family's house stopped being fast enough to do so.
I am very sleepy,
but I have lllllllots to tell you about, which I shall get to soon.
Theoretically my train back to Jaipur is getting in Tuesday afternoon, but judging from our last train arriving 7 hours late, I am not expecting much. But if I do get in in the afternoon, I plan to write up some things about this and my school trip to Shekhawati, and post them during a chai break at school on Wednesday. So look for that! =)
also I'm sorry about the minimal photos; I also wanted to put one of the Yamuna and the Taj Mahal up, but the wireless signal we pick up in our host family's house stopped being fast enough to do so.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Sunday, September 20, 2009
"Indian Culture Is Very Good"
-a remark by a random shopkeeper as I passed
I am in Agra! I woke up at 4:30am this morning (you should be proud, parentals) and walked a kilometer to the ticket booth. My roommate called it "an enchanted walk"; it was dark but there were streetlamps and strings of Christmas lights decorating several hotels and restaurants. It turned out there was a gate closer to our hotel, but the people who went to that one didn't get free bottled water or little socks to put over their shoes like we did. (You have to take off your shoes or cover them with cloth when you go into the Taj Mahal.) Anyway the Taj Mahal was soooo beautifulllll. The most expensive entry ticket to anything by far, but so worth it. Despite all the people it was a very tranquil place (and we were some of the first in anyway). I took a roll of film; the light kept changing...the sky started out gray, then white, then pink broke over the white marble, and turned golden, and the sky became a clear blue...The Yamuna was all misty and gorgeous. The interior of the building had an intense echo, so the few people's comments echoed cacophanously which was sort of not fitting. But outside everyone was quiet, and we interacted with a lot of other nice tourists, taking photos for them or being photographed by them. This one Mauritian tour guide may or may not be creating a Youtube slideshow with our group in it...but anyway.
After a two hour nap, we went to Pizza Hut for lunch, which was glorious in a different way. Cheese is so scarce here usually, and they didn't hold back there. There was hip hop instead of cheesy '80s music playing. A strange observation was a young Indian couple slowdancing in the corner of the second floor (where the restrooms but no dining furniture is)...Then we went next door to Costa Coffee, which was expensive by local standards but so worth it. I got them to make me a black iced coffee, and we stayed for a couple hours talking and enjoying the air conditioning. You really do need to nap or take refuge in some way during the hottest part of the day here. I dont' know if we're having a hot spell or if Agra is just for some reason hotter than Jaipur.
Last night we had dinner at the rooftop restaurant of Hotel Kamal, which I booked for us as it supposedly has one of the best rooftop views. It was our first good look at the Taj Mahal, and we watched the sun set. The food was fairly tasty, but humorous: an eggroll was literally egg rolled up in dough, like a crepe with an omelet inside. A banana pancake (what I ordered) was a banana rolled up in dough. Hot and sour soup was not at all like hot an sour soup. (I didn't try it but it was very spinach-heavy.)
We also went to a bazaar yesterday which was kind of a bad experience; we picked it because the guidebook said it was "refreshingly hassle-free" as it is not geared toward tourists, but really it didn't have much to offer other than fruit and saris, neither of which we were looking for. And as we were the only tourists there, we got hassled quite aggressively. That was the first time I've been physically harrassed; these women kept nudging our arms. Today we went down more touristy streets near our hotel, and dealt with some really nice and funny shopkeepers. We browsed a lot before buying and always bargained down a hefty percentage from the lowest originally named price. (that was a complex phrase, but I think you can figure it out.)
Oh, also yesterday we went to the "Baby Taj." I don't know what it is actually called because the girl who suggested we go there always just calls it that. It was her Islamic Art professor's favorite architectural structure. It was much cheaper to get into than the actual Taj Mahal but was very beautiful and peaceful as well, and also on the Yamuna. It was a nice little oasis after the hustle of the bazaar.
We keep running into the same tourists today. I've gotten to use a couple of my foreign languages today, which was fun. I wish I had more time to talk, but since I'm in a big group I always have to keep moving on with them.
Agra seems to have a lot more...
1) odors
2) excrement on the road
3) animals
4) tourists
5) beggars
...than Jaipur. I imagine you can make some connections between these things.
Tomorrow we may be going to Fatehpur Sikri. I am kind of unenthused as I would like to save money and it will be an hour long unairconditioned crowded bus ride with my luggage each way, not to mention walking around for hours with my bags. We get back into Jaipur at night, and I have some studying to do. The air conditioned reclining chair car we were in on the way up was really great, I slept pretty much the whole time. The view out the window was not great; our window was steamed up and dirty. Hopefully at least one other person will opt to just go to a cafe with me or something.
Anyway, my hour here is about up. I promise to upload photos as soon as I can (probably Tuesday).
Miss you!!! <3
I am in Agra! I woke up at 4:30am this morning (you should be proud, parentals) and walked a kilometer to the ticket booth. My roommate called it "an enchanted walk"; it was dark but there were streetlamps and strings of Christmas lights decorating several hotels and restaurants. It turned out there was a gate closer to our hotel, but the people who went to that one didn't get free bottled water or little socks to put over their shoes like we did. (You have to take off your shoes or cover them with cloth when you go into the Taj Mahal.) Anyway the Taj Mahal was soooo beautifulllll. The most expensive entry ticket to anything by far, but so worth it. Despite all the people it was a very tranquil place (and we were some of the first in anyway). I took a roll of film; the light kept changing...the sky started out gray, then white, then pink broke over the white marble, and turned golden, and the sky became a clear blue...The Yamuna was all misty and gorgeous. The interior of the building had an intense echo, so the few people's comments echoed cacophanously which was sort of not fitting. But outside everyone was quiet, and we interacted with a lot of other nice tourists, taking photos for them or being photographed by them. This one Mauritian tour guide may or may not be creating a Youtube slideshow with our group in it...but anyway.
After a two hour nap, we went to Pizza Hut for lunch, which was glorious in a different way. Cheese is so scarce here usually, and they didn't hold back there. There was hip hop instead of cheesy '80s music playing. A strange observation was a young Indian couple slowdancing in the corner of the second floor (where the restrooms but no dining furniture is)...Then we went next door to Costa Coffee, which was expensive by local standards but so worth it. I got them to make me a black iced coffee, and we stayed for a couple hours talking and enjoying the air conditioning. You really do need to nap or take refuge in some way during the hottest part of the day here. I dont' know if we're having a hot spell or if Agra is just for some reason hotter than Jaipur.
Last night we had dinner at the rooftop restaurant of Hotel Kamal, which I booked for us as it supposedly has one of the best rooftop views. It was our first good look at the Taj Mahal, and we watched the sun set. The food was fairly tasty, but humorous: an eggroll was literally egg rolled up in dough, like a crepe with an omelet inside. A banana pancake (what I ordered) was a banana rolled up in dough. Hot and sour soup was not at all like hot an sour soup. (I didn't try it but it was very spinach-heavy.)
We also went to a bazaar yesterday which was kind of a bad experience; we picked it because the guidebook said it was "refreshingly hassle-free" as it is not geared toward tourists, but really it didn't have much to offer other than fruit and saris, neither of which we were looking for. And as we were the only tourists there, we got hassled quite aggressively. That was the first time I've been physically harrassed; these women kept nudging our arms. Today we went down more touristy streets near our hotel, and dealt with some really nice and funny shopkeepers. We browsed a lot before buying and always bargained down a hefty percentage from the lowest originally named price. (that was a complex phrase, but I think you can figure it out.)
Oh, also yesterday we went to the "Baby Taj." I don't know what it is actually called because the girl who suggested we go there always just calls it that. It was her Islamic Art professor's favorite architectural structure. It was much cheaper to get into than the actual Taj Mahal but was very beautiful and peaceful as well, and also on the Yamuna. It was a nice little oasis after the hustle of the bazaar.
We keep running into the same tourists today. I've gotten to use a couple of my foreign languages today, which was fun. I wish I had more time to talk, but since I'm in a big group I always have to keep moving on with them.
Agra seems to have a lot more...
1) odors
2) excrement on the road
3) animals
4) tourists
5) beggars
...than Jaipur. I imagine you can make some connections between these things.
Tomorrow we may be going to Fatehpur Sikri. I am kind of unenthused as I would like to save money and it will be an hour long unairconditioned crowded bus ride with my luggage each way, not to mention walking around for hours with my bags. We get back into Jaipur at night, and I have some studying to do. The air conditioned reclining chair car we were in on the way up was really great, I slept pretty much the whole time. The view out the window was not great; our window was steamed up and dirty. Hopefully at least one other person will opt to just go to a cafe with me or something.
Anyway, my hour here is about up. I promise to upload photos as soon as I can (probably Tuesday).
Miss you!!! <3
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
"Silk Is Unauspicious This Season"
or, "Zena is unfashionable." =P
Just purchased my first sari, in a pretty deep blue crepe silk with some delicate sequin embroidery. They kept showing me chiffon and georgette saris until I emphasized for the upteenth time that I was interested in silk. Then they spelled out just how uncool silk is this season, but whatever. I think it's gorgeous, it feels amazing, and I don't feel comfortable starting out in a sheer sari.
I have been feeling pretty down the past few days; it feels like so many things are conspiring to make me stressed and unhappy. So many frustrating experiences with men, program facilitators, children, cell phone providers, shopkeepers, food, other students, host family members, travel agencies...RRRRGH. I don't have the energy to relive it all and write it all out. There isn't enough time in the day for me to process everything, do my work, run my errands, and get enough sleep.
This weekend I am traveling to Agra with seven other girls. I turned in my first paper today, a book report on Tagore's Gitanjali. I bought a book today called Entry From Backside Only: hazaar fundas of indian-english which I hope my International Development professor will let me use for my book report for her class. It's about the development and usage of Indian English =)
Today I had a field trip to a national award winning contemporary artist's home to see some of his work. This was my first time in an Indian Muslim home, and some of his pieces were influenced by the Koran and Sufi imagery. They were really beautiful. We got to see a book that had photos of all the works he'd sold, and it was neat to see how his style has evolved over the decades. Tomorrow the other girl on the arts & culture track and I will go see Rekha-ji's (our homestay coordinator's) studio after class.
Quotes:
"Don't think of it as a metaphor, think of it maybe as a similar sort of a situation. Even though it isn't really. And if that sounds confusing it is because it is." -Rima-ji
"If not you might as well shoot yourself right now. Like with a bow and arrow or something." -Rima-ji on whether life has meaning
"He could preach it. And he preached it." -Rima-ji on Buddha
"Americans are satisfied with their system; they are rich enough, so be it." -Kanta-ji on privatized American health care
"You can't have an Iron Curtain or a Bamboo Curtain or any other kind of curtain." -Kanta-ji on life after the dot come revolution
"Professor Jain is actually wearing a disguise, because at heart he is probably one of the youngest that can be." -Rima-ji on our 70+ guest lecturer, Prof. Ajit Kumar Jain
"I am RFG--Ready For Grave." -Ajit-ji on how he feels satisfied in his life, career, scholarship and family
"Zena is eating Rachel!" -Vinita-ji, host aunt and nickname giver, as I was eating a rasgullah
"I'll be a cobra, and you are a little snake." -Vinita-ji, during our dance party
Just purchased my first sari, in a pretty deep blue crepe silk with some delicate sequin embroidery. They kept showing me chiffon and georgette saris until I emphasized for the upteenth time that I was interested in silk. Then they spelled out just how uncool silk is this season, but whatever. I think it's gorgeous, it feels amazing, and I don't feel comfortable starting out in a sheer sari.
I have been feeling pretty down the past few days; it feels like so many things are conspiring to make me stressed and unhappy. So many frustrating experiences with men, program facilitators, children, cell phone providers, shopkeepers, food, other students, host family members, travel agencies...RRRRGH. I don't have the energy to relive it all and write it all out. There isn't enough time in the day for me to process everything, do my work, run my errands, and get enough sleep.
This weekend I am traveling to Agra with seven other girls. I turned in my first paper today, a book report on Tagore's Gitanjali. I bought a book today called Entry From Backside Only: hazaar fundas of indian-english which I hope my International Development professor will let me use for my book report for her class. It's about the development and usage of Indian English =)
Today I had a field trip to a national award winning contemporary artist's home to see some of his work. This was my first time in an Indian Muslim home, and some of his pieces were influenced by the Koran and Sufi imagery. They were really beautiful. We got to see a book that had photos of all the works he'd sold, and it was neat to see how his style has evolved over the decades. Tomorrow the other girl on the arts & culture track and I will go see Rekha-ji's (our homestay coordinator's) studio after class.
Quotes:
"Don't think of it as a metaphor, think of it maybe as a similar sort of a situation. Even though it isn't really. And if that sounds confusing it is because it is." -Rima-ji
"If not you might as well shoot yourself right now. Like with a bow and arrow or something." -Rima-ji on whether life has meaning
"He could preach it. And he preached it." -Rima-ji on Buddha
"Americans are satisfied with their system; they are rich enough, so be it." -Kanta-ji on privatized American health care
"You can't have an Iron Curtain or a Bamboo Curtain or any other kind of curtain." -Kanta-ji on life after the dot come revolution
"Professor Jain is actually wearing a disguise, because at heart he is probably one of the youngest that can be." -Rima-ji on our 70+ guest lecturer, Prof. Ajit Kumar Jain
"I am RFG--Ready For Grave." -Ajit-ji on how he feels satisfied in his life, career, scholarship and family
"Zena is eating Rachel!" -Vinita-ji, host aunt and nickname giver, as I was eating a rasgullah
"I'll be a cobra, and you are a little snake." -Vinita-ji, during our dance party
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Sunday morning
A dove in the garden at my host mother's parents' house. When they fly you can see this pretty dusky blue and white under their wings.
Me one morning outside the MSID building displaying the mehndi my host mother did for me. She is so much quicker than I am! And she holds the cone differently; I tried it and it seems like one's hands get less sore using that method.
Today I went to St Xavier's, a Catholic church, with three other MSID girls. It was wonderful. The mass was in honor of "Girl child day", which was September 8th. There was a computer printout on the alter: "Thank God for the girls." And on a blackboard: "When you educate a boy, you educate an individual. When you educate a girl, you educate a generation." Girls came up and talked about why they were proud to be girls (one said "because we get more attention from the parents, lol..and another began by saying "There are many evils in society..." and then just smiled a lot, too nervous to continue, until the priest spoke to her kindly and she left the microphone), and we had lots of prayers for girls and statistics about the gender imbalance due largely to gender selective abortion followed by talks on why women are so important and ought to be loved and appreciated. There was this beautiful part when in addition to the usual gifts of bread and wine there were candles "to light the darkness around girls and empower them" and flowers "that they may bloom in the garden of your love" etc. There was a mix of Hindi and English Christian songs; the mass was largely in English, but they have Hindi ones as well. I think next weekend I am going to travel with several other students, but for the weekends that I am home I think I would like to go back. There were a couple differences; no one drank the wine, it was held on a tray for one to dip the wafer into, and people made the sign of the cross and kneeled much less, but still most of the prayers were exactly the same. It was so nice to be in a space where I understand what is expected and what is happening, where I know I am safe and accepted.
Yesterday we went out to dinner at a place called Little Italy (my home!! aww) with several other students after the long day of sightseeing; I had the "Exotic Pizza" (pineapple, onion and mushroom). It was good, though it could have used more sauce and cheese. I had just been there the day before with my friend Hannah where we had garlic bread and amazingly cold beverages. It was so great. The space is so tranquil and the food so delicious (the day before yesterday I had accidentally spilled my tiffin so I didn't have lunch other than fruit, so I was very hungry). We made a long trek by foot to this bookstore Crossword, where I picked up Indian Cosmopolitan, Vogue, and Filmfare, and the Hindi edition of Femina. And the fifth Harry Potter movie in Hindi. (99 rupees! Sadly it has no subtitles though...) Anyway that will be a fun activity with my host siblings. It felt sooo good to be in a real bookstore again. A few days ago I went to one that had only English books, in stacks all over the place, completely disorganized. Crossword was a lot like Borders, with a decent selection of Hindi and English books and publications. It felt so good to walk to a place on our own, getting a better sense of distance and location of things and not having to argue with a rickshaw driver. I like taking them home because everyone knows where Birla Mandir is; there's no good way to describe Crossword/Little Italy's location to people.
Sorry this has been a disorganized batch of entries...I am so busy lately and this is a very uncomfortable internet cafe. =(
Animals:
peacocks! The silhouettes of some on Moti Doongri, and then one with four little chicks in the paper factory's yard.
Monkeys -- unlike the ones near our house, which are gray with red behinds, the ones we saw at all the forts we went to yesterday (so close! it was alarming at times) had black faces and hands.
Quotes:
"ART IS LIFE. LIFE IS ART." - paper hanging up slightly behind a shelf at the blue pottery factory
"GOD IS GREET" - on a bus
"The traveller has to knock at every alien door to come to his own, and one has to wander through all the outer worlds to reach the innermost shrine at the end."
-Rabindranath Tagore, Gitanjali XII
The sun setting behind the Arawelli mountains; view from hotel. 
Host sister Kanchi, my roommate Rachel, somehow-related-to-our-family Keyushi, and host brother Vatsel. That's Moti Doongri and Birla Mandir in the background. We're on the roof of our apartment building here.
Moti Doongri at dusk.
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